Chopicalqui
Chopicalqui is my favorite mountain in the Andes. It’s one of the most iconic mountains in the Cordillera Blanca, and in my opinion the most beautiful. I had the opportunity to stand on her summit in 2025.
The Approach
The trailhead sits at the upper end of Laguna Orconcocha, at 3,860 meters. From here the path climbs gently south through a dry quebrada, crossing a stream several times before the vegetation gives way to scree and boulders. After a few hours the wall that marks Chopicalqui’s base finally comes into view, along with a long ridge leading to base camp.
Base Camp
High Camp
High camp is at 5,600 meters, perched on a flattened snow shelf. Getting to high camp involves a glacier crossing from base camp. After around 30 minutes of rock scrambling, it’s time to put the crampons on and rope out. The seracs that lean over the left flank of the approach are a reminder that glaciers move. Once we get to high camp, work is not over yet. We have to build a flat area and set up the tents. The summit night alarm is set and we were off for a short nap.
Summit
6257m
We made it to the summit before sunrise. We were the first to make it up that day. What an incredible sight.
